*{Q.&.A Round II}*

Here is another Q.&.A post for you all! The first post is here in case you missed it. It feels really good to help others...everyone should try it out! So I hope this helps someone...anyone...and if you have more questions, leave me a comment! And if I don't answer it in the comments, please don't be sad...I will include it in the next Q.&.A if it's not answered there!! And I hope you all had a fabulous weekend!! Mine was filled with Disneyland and Las Vegas...I felt like the complete Southern CA tourist for the weekend and loved every moment!!

So on to the questions, yes...I see a hand!!!

Q: How do you meter for backlighting (and more on backlighting)?
A: What I do is get in close to meter JUST THEIR SKIN!! Don't let that bright sun (background) in from the back when you meter or it will throw off the metering. Then, what I have found that works is I don't center (zero) the metering. I overexpose it by usually 1-2 "ticks" (you know what I'm talking about right, on the in-camera meter). Then, step back and take a picture...check your LCD and adjust if you have to from there...but usually I don't need to adjust.

Also...when backlighting, it is always more flattering if you can get something dark behind the subject...Like a dark tree in the distance or building...then you see that nice rim of light around them better.

When focusing during backlighting...I shield my lens a bit so it can focus. When the lens is looking straight at the sun, it usually has trouble focusing. So I shield it from the sun so it will lock focus, then I pull my hand away and shoot it.

Q: I sometimes end up with the focus on her hair clip instead of on her eyes. I usually end up focusing on the spot I want, then moving the camera to frame the shot (hard with a moving child), then snapping the pic, but I don't even know if that's right, ha?!
A: I use my focal points so I can pic which "red dot" I want to have lock in the focus instead of the camera picking it (you know, where you focus and the red dot constantly changes picking something new to focus on). So try using the focal points. It may take some time to get used to, but it has been so helpful for me. I have found that the least amount of "focus/recompose" is the best...so by choosing the focal point, it will help you nail the focus.

Q: I was just wondering what your basic tips are on editing. And what about the "moody" black and white pics?
A: I play with the layers, levels, and curves a lot. Actually, I try to get the best color possible in-camera and just bump a few things to make it pop a bit more. Once you start nailing your exposures, editing becomes SO.MUCH.EASIER. And for the black and whites, I use Brenda Acuncius' Action (the best $12 you will ever spend on actions...and before she realizes she is charging WAY TOO LITTLE for these, you better go buy it--love 'ya Brenda)! That is how I achieve the contrasty black and whites. But a lot of that "moody" look in the black and white images is not so much the action I run, as it is the light. I always try to have the light hit from a direction so it casts a shadow on the face (I do this when shooting indoors if possible...especially newborns)..giving it more dimension.

Q: I have no clue what the histogram is telling me, can you explain?
A: As far as the histogram goes, you want as much of the midtones displayed as possible...so a nice "anthill" works--in other words, you want a nice tonal range. If you take a picture and the subjects are way dark, you will notice the histogram bunching up on the left saying you are way underexposed. If you take a pic and the people are really blown, you will see the histogram bunched up way to the right saying everything is overexposed. When your "anthill" gets bunched up on either side, you are missing all that information in the middle of the histogram that is crucial. However, when you are shooting in a very bright scenario (high-key), you WILL have a lot bunched up on the right of your histogram. But hopefully you still have some of the midtones in the histogram or you may have to be concerned about overexposing. The same goes with shooting in a darker scenario (low-key) and things bunching up on the left. That is a BASIC rundown on histograms...trying to put it in simple terms. To learn more specifics, check out this link...it is more than I could ever write, and I'm not going to reinvent the wheel...so check this out on histograms!

Q: I've been practicing in manual A LOT! I'm still having some trouble with blur in the face...so do you give the shutter speed priority while metering? What about aperture?
A: Blur in the face...check and make sure your shutter speed is not below 125 or you may be dealing with camera shake. I always adjust the shutter speed (it is sort of my variable element) because I want to pick my aperture and let it stay there. I like shooting around 2.0-2.8 aperture. So the first thing I do is set an ISO that will work for the light around me (the darker the situation, the higher I go. But when outside, I usually just stick with 200iso). Next, after setting my ISO, I put my aperture where I want it usually 2.0-2.8...unless it's a group I go to 3.5ish). And after setting my aperture where I want, I then adjust my shutter speed from there to give me proper exposure...BUT IF YOU ARE HAVING TO SET YOUR SHUTTER SPEED LOWER THAN 125, THEN YOU MAY WANT TO INCREASE YOUR ISO INSTEAD TO AVOID CAMERA SHAKE!! Does that help answer your question? The first thing I think with blur in the face is a slow shutter speed. However, you could be too close to lock in a focus. Make sure your lens is not set on M for manual focus; I keep my lens on AF (auto focus).

Q: Do you ever use zoom lenses?
A: Nope...My feet are my zoom...I find it makes me more interactive in my sessions. No right or wrong, just a personal preference at this point.

Q: What would you recommend as far as editing? Photoshop or Lightroom?
I do WAY much more in Photoshop than Lightroom. If I had to pick one, it would be Photoshop...but only because (shhhhh, this is a secret) I am not all that saavy in Lightroom!! So here is a general idea of my workflow...I load the RAW images into Lightroom and cull them there (flag my favorites). Then I look at those and do any exposure tweeks that are necessary and/or get the white balance looking right, then I export them as JPEGS so I can work my magic in Photoshop. However, it is COMPLETELY possible to do all your editing in Lightroom...I'm just not that good with it I suppose!! And you know how it is once you get set in your ways!!! So pick your poison!

And blogs are always WAY better with at least one picture, so...this is what I will be doing with my two little ones this afternoon...cuddling, tickle attacks, and watching the Olympics!!


Does this count for my self-portrait for the month?!
Until Next Time,
-m